Fort Cornwallis, Penang: your essential visitor guide

Of all the historical events that shaped Penang’s history, one of the most significant occurred in 1786 when the British arrived and began building a fort on the north-eastern tip of Penang Island. Fort Cornwallis has evolved over the years and is now one of the top things to do in George Town, offering the opportunity to witness Penang’s colonial past.

About Fort Cornwallis

Fort Cornwallis, Francis Light and the British East India Company are intertwined into the early history of Penang. Built close to the spot where Francis Light first landed on the island, the fort is the largest in Malaysia and has been rebuilt, renovated and repurposed several times in its lifetime.

Originally built as a defensive fort to protect against pirates and unfriendly neighbours on the mainland, Fort Cornwallis was never fired-upon and didn’t see any military action. The large canon pointing out to sea (including the famous Seri Rambai cannon) ended up being more decorative than aggressive, with the fort serving as an administrative centre for the growing settlement.

Where to find Fort Cornwallis

Fort Cornwallis is situated on the north-eastern edge of George Town, close to the Queen Victoria Memorial Clock Tower and Penang’s Town Hall. Click here for Google Maps location.

If you’re following our George Town walking tour, you’ll pass Fort Cornwallis towards the beginning.

Fort Cornwallis is undergoing one of its semi-regular renovation projects and there’s a fair amount of construction work taking place on the southern and western edges. The entrance gate is on the eastern side of the site, along Jalan Tun Syed Sheh Barakbah.

Entry fee for Fort Cornwallis and opening times

Fort Cornwallis is open 8am to 11pm. Entry fees are payable by debit or credit cards only, cash is not accepted.

It’s RM20 for non-Malaysians, RM10 for Malaysians. There is only one ticket type, with no discounts for children, students, etc.

A guided tour is available on Fridays, Saturdays and Sunday at 10am, 12pm, 2pm and 4pm.

What to expect from your visit

Fort Cornwallis was originally laid out in a star-shape and has retained the same layout to this day. Even though the surrounding area has changed dramatically, with several large trees now in the grounds, there’s still a strong sense of history within the walls. Looking out to sea, with the canon in the foreground, you can easily imagine British soldiers manning their posts and waiting for an enemy who would never appear.

When we first visited Fort Cornwallis almost twenty years ago, the fort was in much better upkeep, and it has lost some of the interest it once had. The storerooms are still a welcome retreat from the heat, but are mostly bare with none of the artefacts and displays which used to help inform a visit.

At times, the whole site has a slightly end-of-season feel, as if it’s patiently waiting for its next cash investment. The extensive building works (including the reinstatement of the moat) have no doubt taken some of the finance and focus away from the interior of the fort. Hopefully when that is completed, the interior will get some investment.

However, even taking that into account, a visit to Fort Cornwallis is still highly rewarding, especially if you’re keen on Penang’s colonial history. Only two of the original buildings have survived (the chapel and gunpowder room), although both are locked-up and inaccessible to visitors.

Head over to the Queen Victoria Clocktower viewpoint for an interesting perspective on how modern George Town crept up towards the edge of the fort. The old warehouses are interesting but neglected, with the large and unattractive Chamber of Commerce building dominating the immediate skyline.

In the opposite corner, the 400 year-old Seri Rambai cannon has a fascinating history, having been gifted, traded and captured several times over the centuries. It comes with its own myth and legend, and was once thought of as a fertility aid. It’s a good example of what is arguably missing from the rest of the site; some historical artefacts and flavour to help complement the bricks and mortar of the fort.

There isn’t much shade around the fort grounds but a cool breeze sometimes blows in from the sea. The lawn is pleasant to walk on and allows a gentle amble along the perimeter, checking out other cannon and views across to George Town, the sea and Penang Island.

In the northeast corner, you can glimpse the twenty-metre high lighthouse through the trees, sadly no longer accessible to the public.

The Fort Cornwallis restaurant

There’s an air-conditioned restaurant onsite, which serves fancy but expensive Malaysian food options. However, with the culinary wonders of George Town only a few minutes walk away, you may choose to delay eating until after your visit.

The restaurant does serve alcohol on the roof terrace, which is a very pleasant way to break up your visit, with views over the Straits of Malacca.

At weekends, popup food and drink stalls appear in the grounds and are popular with locals and tourists alike.

After your visit

After exiting through the same gates you entered, turn left and walk along the seafront past the naval base. This gives you an interesting perspective on the fort from the outside, especially with the cannon facing out to sea. It also gives you a good indication of how solid the walls are and the effort which must have gone into building the structure.

This path continues along the shore towards the E&O Hotel, past some of the colonial buildings which make the area so famous.

Alternatively, continue to explore more of George Town on our self-guided walking tour.

Final thoughts on visiting Fort Cornwallis

Fort Cornwallis holds a prime spot in George Town, not just geographically, but also historically. Stepping out onto the wide walls of the fort, it’s easy to imagine those first few years when the fort was the most important structure on the island.

It’s a good idea to take one of the guided tours if it coincides with your visit. Some of the historical aspects of the fort are less obvious now, and a guide will help bring them to life. Otherwise, the grounds are well-maintained and the onsite beer garden is a wonderful place to escape the heat with views over the sea.

Even though it’s perhaps lost some of the allure it had a few years ago, and the ongoing building works can affect the ambience, Fort Cornwallis is still undoubtedly a must-do on any Penang itinerary.